May 18th
So much for an early start! Or for starting the camino today, for that matter. I’ll be lucky if I get to St. Jean Pied de Port before the information shop (or whatever it is) is closed. So will have to stay in St. Jean Pied de Port tonight and start early tomorrow. Just as well, as I have my period and already had a mishap (luckily near a bathroom). These trousers clean and dry quickly, at least. Ah, there’s an obvious hiker -- middle-aged, glasses, blue aerodynamic shirt, garish red hiking pants and huge backpack. He just did the same circuit as me -- walked and looked around, then wandered into station area -- probably be back once he finds the public toilets are closed.
There are some outstandingly attractive people here. Only noted women, except for one mesmerizingly pretty guy last night, who was having dinner with a woman just as attractive.
Ah, here comes the hiker, as predicted. Now at bar ordering something, like I did. Perhaps the camino does start here.
This guy looks not unlike a murderer -- the unassuming, “kept to himself in the family house after the parents died,” type. Chin looks like it had pretensions once, but any definition now eroded away. At the critical point, it melds into neck. Thick glasses make his small eyes look almost normal-sized, but too close together. Looks about 52 and is alone. Unshaven and short hair, little mouth drooping open (or perhaps he just took a sip of latte). At certain angles, the light reflecting on his glasses eradicates his eyes. He speaks French.
Gonna say yesterday on train to Bayonne, saw one girl reading a French novel. Then another. Thought, “How pretentious.” Then remembered I was in France.
Ah, two more pack animals. I’m definitely the youngest of the lot so far. I should ask them about the trail start, etc. Left my guide book at home, along with my mirror brush.
In earlier cafe, troop of teens sitting outside all had to use the bathroom -- line snaked almost entire room. I was in line, too, and one nice looking, curly haired boy picked up my FT, open to Obama “going back” on Gitmo tribunals, and started reading. I was impressed that he was either curious about news, or wanting to improve his English or even if he just thought it would impress his friends -- such hypocrisy would at least indicate taste. After a bit, I asked if he’d put it back once finished. “Of course, yes.” Then I offered to leave it for him once I was finished, but he said, “I’m reading it while I’m waiting. We’re a group of 40.”
Once I came out of the bathroom, another boy had picked it up and was looking at it warily. The second he saw me, he dropped it onto the table as if caught stealing.
Realized today that the waist belt of my pack at its tightest still doesn’t touch my waist, so all the weight is on my shoulders.
Dark brown hair and brown eyes seem to be the look here -- like in southern Romania. Whoever that original ancestor was really got around!
How do you say idiot in French? Exactly. Went to buy bottle of Evian -- saw sign offering discount on water if I bought a paper. The pertinent part, "-15%", was not particularly French, nor was the picture of Evian next to it, nor the "+" and the picture of newspaper. Still, at Waterstone's, usually the water is free with a paper, so I asked the guy behind the counter if it was cheaper to buy the water with the newspaper. He said, "Oui, any newspaper." I said, "Guess I'll learn French," and chose La Monde. As he rang it up, the total came to 1 euro more than the water itself. But I didn't want to cancel and start anew -- nothing like impetuously buying a paper in a language one doesn't understand to make one feel dangerously extravagant.
Oh yeah, the manager of the cafe with the kids sang as he worked -- very nice voice. I told him so, or rather, I let out an atonal shriek and clapped. He said, "Merci."
Tried to get my ticket stamped, but the machine refused. At last asked train lady worker. Tried auditory charades again -- showed her my ticket, mimed sticking it in slot, then beeped. She laughed and then smiled when she saw how crumpled it was. I said, "I got nervous." But probably it was more those three lattes. She got it stamped and now I'm on the vibrating train (not moving yet), surrounded by grey-haired men with huge shells strapped onto their backpacks. No English speakers as of yet.